Kyoto travel guide

Fushimi Inari Taisha

Each of the thousands of red torii gates here was given by a business or family hoping for good fortune from Inari, the god of rice and prosperity, and the donor’s name is painted in black on the back. Stone foxes, Inari’s messengers, guard the paths with keys and scrolls in their mouths as the tunnels of gates climb the 233-metre Mount Inari. It never closes and costs nothing, so start at dawn; most visitors turn back long before the top, and the upper paths are far quieter, with views over the city.

Kiyomizu-dera

The great wooden stage juts out from the hillside on a lattice of tall pillars, and Japanese still say “jump from the stage at Kiyomizu” when they mean taking a big risk. Below it, the three thin streams of the Otowa waterfall are said to grant long life, success in study or luck in love; drink from one only, as taking all three is thought greedy. Climb up through the old shopping lanes of Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka. It opens at 6 AM, and holds evening openings in spring, mid-August and late November.

Arashiyama Bamboo Grove

Stalks thick as your arm rise far overhead and close into a green ceiling, and when the wind moves them they creak and rustle, a sound Japan’s environment ministry once listed among the country’s 100 best soundscapes. The path is short, so the feeling depends on having it nearly to yourself. Go early in the morning, before the tour groups, and pair it with Tenryu-ji and a walk along the river.

Tenryu-ji

Laid out by the Zen master Muso Soseki in the 1300s, the pond garden keeps much of its original form, its rocks and pines set against the Arashiyama hills, which the design borrows as a backdrop. Sit on the veranda of the abbot’s hall and the hills seem to belong to the garden. The garden opens at 8:30 AM; the dragon painted on the Dharma Hall ceiling, whose eyes seem to follow you wherever you stand, can be seen on weekends, holidays and in set spring and autumn periods.

Nijo Castle

Tokugawa Ieyasu built this palace in 1603 to show the emperor’s city who really ruled, and in 1867 the last shogun handed power back to the emperor inside it. In the Ninomaru Palace, gold-ground paintings of tigers and pine trees by the Kano school fill room after room, and the “nightingale” floors chirp under every step, said to have warned guards of intruders. The palace is closed on Tuesdays in January, July, August and December.

Kinkaku-ji

The shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu made this his retirement villa in the 1390s, and its upper two floors are covered in gold leaf under a bronze phoenix, so on a still day the whole pavilion doubles in the pond below. What you see is a 1955 rebuild: a young monk set fire to the original in 1950, a story Yukio Mishima turned into a novel. It opens 9 AM to 5 PM every day; you view it from the garden path, not inside.

Ginkaku-ji

Yoshimitsu’s grandson Yoshimasa modelled his own retreat on the Golden Pavilion, but the Silver Pavilion was never silvered, and its plain dark wood suits the quiet taste he championed, from the tea ceremony to flower arranging. Beside it lie a sea of raked white sand and a flat-topped sand cone said to be for moon-viewing, and a path climbs through moss gardens to a view over the roofs. From here a canal-side path, the Philosopher’s Path, runs south towards Nanzen-ji, lovely in blossom and leaf season.

Gion and Hanamikoji

In the early evening you may catch sight of a maiko, an apprentice geiko, in white make-up and a long trailing sash, hurrying to an appointment behind one of the latticed wooden teahouse fronts, many of which still take guests by introduction only. Walk on to the willow-lined Shirakawa canal at dusk, one of the prettiest corners of the city. Stay on the public streets such as Hanamikoji: the private side alleys are closed to visitors, signs warn of fines, and photographing geiko or maiko without asking is not welcome.

Kyoto Imperial Palace

Emperors lived here until the capital moved to Tokyo in 1869, and the Shishinden, the hall where the Taisho and Showa emperors were enthroned, still stands beyond a vermilion gate across a courtyard of white gravel. A set route leads past cypress-bark roofs and a pond garden, a calm hour in the middle of the city. You can walk in without booking, which used to be impossible; check closing days before you go.

Nishiki Market

Locals call this narrow covered street “Kyoto’s kitchen”, and some of its shops have supplied the city’s cooks for generations: barrels of pickles, fresh tofu, sweet rolled omelette, baby octopus on sticks, and knives from Aritsugu, a maker since the 1500s. Taste your way along slowly. The market asks visitors not to eat while walking: eat in front of or inside the shop where you buy. Many shops close on Wednesdays.

Pontocho

Barely wide enough for two people to pass, this stone-paved lane is also one of Kyoto’s geiko districts, and its lanterns carry a small plover emblem. From May to September the restaurants on the river side build wooden terraces out towards the Kamo, so you can eat in the evening breeze. It is at its best after dark when the lanterns are lit. Many places serve Kyoto-style set dinners, and some book out, so reserve ahead.

Kaiseki

Grown out of the light meals served with the tea ceremony, kaiseki is Kyoto’s multi-course seasonal dinner, each small course plated on lacquer or ceramics chosen for the time of year, down to a maple leaf beside the grilled fish in autumn. Chefs build the menu around what is in the market that week, so a spring dinner and an autumn one share almost nothing. Book ahead: the better kaiseki restaurants rarely have a free table for walk-ins.

Tofu and yuba

Kyoto’s soft groundwater and centuries of meat-free temple cooking made its tofu famous, silky enough to eat with nothing but a little soy and ginger. Yuba, the skin lifted from simmering soy milk, comes fresh in delicate folded sheets and tastes faintly sweet. Look for set lunches of yudofu, tofu warmed at your table in a pot of kelp broth, near the temples of the east and west, around Nanzen-ji and Arashiyama.

Obanzai

This is what Kyoto families cook every day: simmered daikon, dressed greens, a little grilled fish, with nothing wasted, served in small portions. At many obanzai counters around the centre the dishes sit in big bowls in front of you, so you can simply point at what looks good. A good, lighter alternative to a formal dinner.

Best: Late March to mid-April

Cherry blossoms peak, so the city is at its most beautiful, though very crowded.

Best: Mid-November to early December

Maples and ginkgo turn the temple gardens red and gold, usually peaking from mid-November into early December.

Harder: July and August

The hottest months, with average highs above 32°C. The Gion Matsuri fills July, with float processions on the 17th and 24th.

How do you get around Kyoto?

• Day passThe Subway & Bus 1-Day Pass gives a day of unlimited rides on Kyoto City subway and buses. The cheaper bus-only pass no longer exists.
• IC cardsICOCA, Suica, PASMO and PiTaPa all work on Kyoto’s city buses and subway. Credit cards and the Japan Rail Pass don’t.
• TaxisHail a taxi with its lamp showing unoccupied, or use a taxi stand near stations.
• Riding the busOn regular city buses, get on at the back and pay as you get off at the front. The EX100 and EX101 sightseeing express buses are the other way round.

Do you need cash in Kyoto, and do you tip?

• Cards in citiesVisa, JCB and Mastercard are widely accepted at major hotels, department stores and urban restaurants.
• ATMs for foreign cards7-Eleven’s Seven Bank ATMs take most overseas cards, with an English screen. Fees depend on your card.
• No tippingTipping isn’t customary in restaurants, cafes, taxis or hotels. Pay what the bill says.
• Tax-free shoppingSince 1 November 2026 you pay full price, including tax, at tax-free shops. Show your passport when you buy, and the tax is refunded after customs checks your goods as you leave Japan.
• Accommodation taxKyoto adds a tax per person per night to every stay. Since March 2026 it ranges from 200 yen for cheap rooms to 10,000 yen for the most expensive.

Useful phrases

• Excuse me / sorrySumimasen (すみません)
• Thank youArigatou gozaimasu (ありがとうございます)
• YesHai (はい)
• No, thank youIie, daijoubu desu (いいえ、大丈夫です)
• How much is this?Kore wa ikura desu ka? (これはいくらですか？)
• Good morningOhayou gozaimasu (おはようございます)

Local manners

• ShoesTake shoes off at homes, some inns and temples. Look for the step or slippers.
• TrainsKeep your voice low and phone on silent. Quiet carriages are common.
• QueuesLine up neatly at stations and bus stops, and wait your turn to board.
• TippingTipping is not expected. Pay the amount shown and say thank you.
• BinsPublic bins are rare, so carry your rubbish home until you find one.
• BowingA small bow is a friendly greeting. A slight nod is perfectly fine too.
• Nishiki MarketDon’t eat while walking through the market. Eat in front of or inside the shop where you bought the food.
• GionStay on public streets such as Hanamikoji. The private alleys are closed to visitors, with fines for walking in or taking photos.

Useful apps

• Google MapsWalking routes and train times across Kyoto
• Google TranslateReading menus and signs in Japanese
• Japan Transit Planner - TravelFinding bus and train routes around Kyoto
• Uber - Rides, Eats, HotelsOrdering rides when taxis are scarce
• Uber Eats: Food & GroceriesOrdering food delivery to your hotel

Download links for these are in the Kyoto guide in the Journey app.

Before you book

Check your government’s travel advice before you book.